Kim and Jay have cemented Lolo and Lola’s place as the longest-running Filipino restaurant in Canberra. Photo: Kazuri Photography.
Whenever I visit Lolo and Lola, my first thought is, ‘This feels like home’.
Kim and Jay have cemented Lolo and Lola’s place as the longest-running Filipino restaurant in Canberra; Kim, the brassy, heart-on-her-sleeve face of the place, juggling front-of-house with cheffing and Jay – staunch, yet smiling, at the helm of the kitchen. Smiling and stronger together, even through the tough times.
“Filipino food is all about extremes,” Kim reminds us as she flourishes a Paddle Pop-pink drink I haven’t seen before in front of us.
“Very sweet desserts and very salty mains!”
‘Ice scramble’ is a signature Filipino refreshment sold on the kerb in the hot months. Photo: Kazuri Photography.
This particular beverage/slushie, ‘ice scramble’, is a signature Filipino refreshment sold on the kerb in the hot months. Kim explains that ice scramble is an affordable treat because ice cream is too expensive for many Filipino families. Shaved ice and condensed milk form the base of this sugary drink. It tastes like a banana Paddle Pop topped with powdered milk and chocolate sauce.
“Nothing has changed here at Lolo and Lola over the years,” Kim says.
“We still cook from our heart. We still create our dishes the old-fashioned way. We stick mostly to the classic recipes because we aim to bring the real flavours of the Philippines to pay homage to our grandparents. We bring our food to Canberra and hope Canberra will embrace it.”
Judging by the happy lunch crowd, I think Canberra has embraced its food. I cannot wait for my tastebuds to embrace our meal.
We start with some drinks.
Chilled and sweet with a tropical citrus tang, the calamansi juice is made from the homegrown crop from Kim and Jay’s own garden. It tastes every bit as good as I remember.
Lolo and Lola’s ube thick shake has to be my favourite ube beverage anywhere – earthy, icy sweet and absolutely perfect, made on the team’s house-made ube ice cream. I just have to keep drinking it to remind myself how delicious it is.
My ube thick shake is earthy, icy sweet and absolutely perfect. Photo: Kazuri Photography.
If you prefer a drink that is not overly sweet, and brings an exotic vibe, try a ‘young coconut’ slushie. Cold and thirst-quenching, it is run through with fresh coconut.
Our lunch arrives.
As Kim serves up this week’s twist on adobo, she tells us that each island in the Philippines has their own version of adobo, each town makes it uniquely, and each household has its own tweak.
This week’s adobo is Korean chicken-inspired – so it has the crunch of crispy battered chicken with juicy deliciousness inside, yet the gorgeous sweet, salty sour signature of adobo glazes over each bit of crunch. Adobo purists, rest assured that traditional adobo holds a hallowed spot on the menu.
Sticky and scrumptious, imprinted with the sweet smoky char of the flame’s kiss, the Pinoy ribs are incredible. The meat pulls so easily off the bone.
Sticky and scrumptious, imprinted with the sweet smoky char of the flame’s kiss, the Pinoy ribs are incredible. Photo: Kazuri Photography.
The Kare Kare tastes like tales of a faraway place, blends of aromatics I have not experienced before, punctuated by sweet, peppery notes of annatto and the toasted cream of peanuts in the sauce. Soaking up this sauce are lush chunks of tender braised beef and eggplant. Once I taste the house-made shrimp paste in a delicate side dish, I upend it all into the Kare Kare. Impeccable.
We have saved room for dessert.
Jay’s Halo Halo dessert brings total sensory overload. A delicious cacophony of tastes, textures and colour. My highlights are the shaved ice, leche flan, house-made ube ice cream, candied jackfruit, tapioca pearls, young coconut strips and candied banana. I particularly enjoy the firm chew of palm nuts. I begin to delicately scoop spoonfuls of dessert into my mouth, but Kim gets two spoons and deftly integrates everything. “Halo Halo means ‘mix mix’!” and now it is perfect! Ugly delicious!
Jay’s Halo Halo dessert brings total sensory overload. Photo: Kazuri Photography.
We have eaten for a long time and are the last to leave. I notice that after the lunch service, the whole Lolo and Lola team gathers around a table near the kitchen to share lunch family-style.
When I mention this to Kim, she says, “We have to give so much credit to our amazing team, and we wouldn’t be where we are right now if not for their commitment, lov, and dedication.”
Lolo and Lola is located at 3 Watson Place, Watson. They are open Thursday to Sunday for dinner from 5 pm to 8 pm and on Saturday and Sunday for lunch from 11 am to 2 pm. Follow Lolo and Lola on Facebook and Instagram.
Original Article published by Michelle Taylor on Riotact.
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