After 15 years going against the grain, Italian & Sons is an institution and a half

Maybe it’s the fast-changing nature of restaurants, maybe it’s all the new players in town, but in Canberra, when you hit 10 years as a restaurant, you’re a bonafide institution.

Canberra restaurant Italian & Sons has just marked 15 years in operation, and if that wasn’t enough of a milestone, their original Italian restaurant, Mezzalira, will turn 28 this year. Having two Canberra institutions is something owner Pasquale Trimboli and his brothers don’t take lightly in the current economic climate.

“We seem to be bucking the trend a little in the industry at the moment and we’re in a good place. We really credit that to the loyalty of our customers over such a long period of time. Myself and my brothers are also very hands-on in the business still, and that makes a difference,” Pasquale tells Region.

Although it’s hard to imagine a time when the restaurant wasn’t wall-to-wall happy diners every night of the week, Pasquale reflects on the slow build that eventually dug in its heels and found its place.

“At Italian & Sons, we really went against the grain in the beginning. It meant we had a slower start, but within a few months, it shot off. The menu hasn’t changed much in terms of the concept; the idea is to be unashamedly Italian. At that point in time, it meant that we were delivering a product that was against the norm. We weren’t serving the more typical Americanised Italian food. We still sometimes get people looking for Bolognaise or Scallopini, but it’s not our thing. If it’s something you could do at home, you shouldn’t be coming to us.”

Along with their approach of being unashamedly Italian, Pasquale credits the longevity of Italian & Sons to consistency and quality.

“We’ve always put ourselves out there to respect the produce and what we put on the plate. I’ve always said that when the day comes that I can’t be proud of what I’m putting on the plate, that’s when I don’t want to be in the restaurant game any longer. Every dish has to be something I would serve my family, my regulars and my friends and be proud of it,” says Pasquale.

Delivering that consistency and quality is not without its challenges. Pasquale is more than aware of the difficulties of operating in Canberra versus its big city neighbours Sydney and Melbourne and how that has a knock-on effect for the consumer.

“Canberra’s a funny one. We have a lot of restaurants, but we are paying a lot for our produce and staff compared to Sydney and Melbourne. Operating costs are really high, which makes Canberra an expensive dining city.

“We get hit for every delivery of produce from Sydney. If you add up five or six deliveries each week at $100 each, you are at $25-$35,000 a year just in delivery costs. Our staff costs are also high, as are the rents and that all gets passed onto the consumer,” Pasquale explains.

Fifteen years in business is a lifetime in the fast-paced and ever-changing restaurant landscape, and Canberra’s dining scene has seen more change than most in that time. When asked about the new players in town, Pasquale is apprehensive about the benefits that Canberra will see.

“From the outside looking in, the current wave of Sydney chefs coming to Canberra looks great. It looks like they are investing in Canberra. What’s really happening is you have a big retail group funding them in a risk-free situation to come to Canberra for a set period of time and take a shot at it. It’s a free ride – there’s nothing to lose for these guys.

“More often than not, just like Jamie Oliver and others who have come, they pack up and leave. The danger is that they are hitting the little guys, the owners and chefs who have put everything they have into opening a restaurant, and in 12 months’ time, they can’t compete with the money behind the big retail groups. I suppose it’s life. It’s a part of Canberra becoming a big city, but is it good for the dining scene? Not really. There are things that would be better, such as an apprenticeship scheme.”

Despite the challenges of the changing landscape, Pasquale and his brothers have proven that long-term success is possible when the right formula is found, and he has warm feelings about the industry and his place in it.

“The beauty of the business is that you get to make it a part of you, a part of your personality. We’ve had customers over the years who are now friends. It has almost become our home, and we welcome people into our home every night. And if you can’t do that in the hospitality game, you might be in the wrong game.”

Italian & Sons is located at 7 Lonsdale Street, Braddon. Reservations to enjoy their unashamedly Italian menu can be made online.

Original Article published by Tenele Conway on Riotact.