Omkar Pankade (left), Jenyta Maharjan (middle), and Suman Shrestha of The Dumpling Diplomat. Photo: Tenele Conway.
At the Old Bus Depot Markets, handmade isn’t a trend – it’s the whole point.
And for two stallholders, Omkar Pankade and Suman Shrestha, handmade dumplings come with three generations of history behind them.
“It all started with Suman’s family. His grandmother passed her momo recipes onto his father, who had a restaurant in Nepal, and now we’re using that here in Canberra,” Omkar tells Region.
Despite having full-time jobs, the two friends, along with Suman’s wife, Jenyta Maharjan, man their stall, The Dumpling Diplomat, every Sunday, and they do it in the name of connection.
“For us, the sole purpose has always been to engage with the community by sharing food that carries so much cultural history. Yes, running a side business takes time and energy, but it’s never just about the money. It’s about connection.”
Part of Omkar’s connection is to educate and engage the public on Nepalese dumpling traditions that differ from those people may be more familiar with.
“When we first started, lots of people didn’t know about momos, so we teach people about Nepalese dumplings and what makes them special.”
The Dumpling Diplomat prides itself on hand-making each and every dumpling. Photo: Tenele Conway.
That ‘special’ element, Omkar shares, is the spice mix that’s unique to Suman’s family.
“Every family in Nepal has their own spice mix, so each family’s momos have a different taste, and this is his family recipe.”
Omkar, who hails from India, says it’s through his friendship with Suman that his own love of momos has grown. He’s now passionate when it comes to quality and integrity and encourages people to look closely at their dumplings, wherever they choose to buy them.
The difference between handmade and machine-made, he says, is obvious: machine-made momos are uniform in shape and size, with the machine-made momos not being true to traditional Nepalese recipes.
“The pastry is so thick on a machine-made momo that it defeats the purpose of a momo. They should have nice, thin pastry with a lot of filling.”
Thin pastry, loaded with spice-rich filling, Omkar says, is the hallmark of a good momo, and he feels that the return diners to the Dumpling Diplomat have given them the validation they needed when first starting out in the dumpling business.
“Canberra is so interesting. People stick with what they know and like. In Sydney, people tend to move around and try new things, but Canberrans like to go back for what they like, and we’re seeing that here.”
The weekly menu is intentionally small, allowing the team to focus on consistency and to be true to their vision for the business. There are four staple momos: beef, chicken, pork and veg. Each is served with a choice of three sauces: chilli oil for those seeking a spicy kick, honey-soy vinegar for those who can’t handle the heat, and tomato chutney, the classic Nepalese sauce that Omkar suggests everyone must try.
The dumpling soup recipe has been passed through the generations. Photo: Tenele Conway.
Seasonal specials bring variety to the menu, and on my recent visit, on an unseasonably cold summer day, I was treated to soup dumplings, another family recipe. This broth-based dumpling soup has a slow-cooked chicken broth base, and Suman lets me in on the secret that he enhances the flavour with a pork hock to add depth and smokiness.
Suman tells me it’s their best-seller during winter, and I can see why. Hot and hearty and infused with warming spices, it’s exactly what a Canberra winter calls for.
During the summer months, you’ll often find Johl Momo’s on the menu, where the plump dumpling parcels have been submerged in a thick sauce called a johl achaar. Its tomato base is thick and creamy yet still bright and tangy.
The Dumpling Diplomat team is slowly branching into larger events, including the National Multicultural Festival, but their base remains the Old Bus Depot Markets, where they first connected with Canberra.
“At the end of the day, it’s about pride in what we cook and the joy of seeing people enjoy it. That’s what drives us.”
The Old Bus Depot Markets are located at 21 Wentworth Avenue, Kingston, and are open from 9:30 am every Sunday. You can follow The Dumpling Diplomat on Instagram to keep up with their latest momo menu.
Original Article published by Tenele Conway on Region Canberra.
