The pork bun is stuffed with slow-cooked tender pork. Photo: Tenele Conway.
Walking towards an unmarked van, wedged between an electrical box and a disused caravan in a quiet suburban streetscape, it almost felt like I was collecting something a little clandestine and possibly illegal. In reality, I was simply picking up an order of French-inspired pork loaf from a front-yard food truck called Yowei.
Located in the suburb of Evatt, Yowei is the OG front yard food truck, the one that other front yard food trucks like Amy’s Street Food in Amaroo point to and say this is what inspired them to pursue business in this form.
Six years on from their initial opening, they are still pumping out some of the best food you’ll get from a food truck in Canberra.
The set-up is as no-frills as it comes, which helps keep the prices down. On a recent visit, I ordered a generous spread of four dishes, which came to a minuscule $44 – remarkably good value for the serving sizes and quality of food.
That food quality comes from the experience of the owner and head chef, a private person we’ll just call Chef for the purposes of the story. Chef has been in kitchens since he was 16, so more than 10 years now. Cutting his teeth in a wide range of cuisines from Japanese to Malaysian and Korean, this is reflected in the menu, which is diverse in its origins.
It doesn’t get much more no-frills than this, but the food speaks for itself. Photo: Tenele Conway.
Curious about the pork loaf I’d come to collect, I got chatting with Chef, who clearly knows his stuff. The dish is French-inspired, made with about 80 per cent pork leg along with cream and cheese. Traditionally, it’s slow-cooked in the oven, he explains, but that method doesn’t quite suit the pace of a food truck kitchen. Instead, he breads the loaf and deep-fries it, creating a fluffy, creamy centre with a crunchy coating. It’s finished with his homemade Yowei sauce, which lifts the flavour and makes it perfect to eat with rice.
“You need about 20 per cent more flavour to make things enjoyable to eat with rice,” Chef explains.
It’s a surprising dish to find in a food truck, and one that, due to its labour-intensive processes, Chef has tried to remove from the menu but was met with uproar from his Uber Eats clientele, who weren’t having a bar of it and made their opinions known.
Keen to try more from the menu, I also grabbed a pork bun — a bao-style bun stuffed with slow-cooked, fall-apart five-spice pork, reminiscent of the Thai dish khao kha moo. At $7.50, it’s exceedingly generous with the filling, and the meat is tender and moreish.
Fried chicken features heavily on the menu, so I ordered a serve with the Yowei sauce, though it can also be seasoned simply with salt and pepper. It’s similar in style to a chicken schnitzel, but Chef’s version stands out thanks to his breading technique, which delivers a satisfying crunch and plenty of texture.
The prices at Yowei are exceptionally good value and the food quality excellent. Photo: Tenele Conway.
I also tried the Malaysian curry with rice, which was warming and hearty. Even in a simple dish like this, Chef has clearly worked his magic. The curry seemed rich, possibly built on a homemade chicken stock that added real depth, while the carrots and potatoes had the perfect fall-apart texture, likely parboiled before being added to the curry.
When it comes to ordering from Yowei, Chef says most regulars simply phone ahead and place their order for collection. Yowei is also available on DoorDash for pickup or delivery, and Uber Eats for delivery. However, those platforms take a sizable cut, so do Chef a solid and give him a call directly. He’s a friendly, chatty guy and a quick conversation is part of the charm.
And take it from me: don’t skip the pork loaf — it’s a real winner.
Yowei is open for lunch and dinner 6 days a week from Tuesday to Sunday. There is no on-site dining, so plan for takeaway, or ask for some cutlery and take it to a local park for a picnic. Check out the menu at DoorDash and call your order on 0420 898 685.
Original Article published by Tenele Conway on Region Canberra.
