Slow-cooked pork nachos. Photo: Sophia Brady.
A few blocks from the buzz of the Kingston Foreshore, tucked into the Parbery Street precinct, sits The Pacific Food Studio.
It is a literal hole in the wall overlooking a courtyard lined with picnic tables. If I had not been taking my dogs to the vet around the corner, I may never have found it.
That would have been a huge shame because some serious magic is coming out of this tiny kitchen.
Drawn in by the intoxicating aroma of lunch service, I grabbed an outdoor table on a sunny winter afternoon, dogs in tow. My stomach refused to let me leave without succumbing to whatever was cooking behind that window and finding out more about the two friendly faces who had been running it for the past three months.
Chef Alejandro Torres Santelices has spent much of the past 15 years cooking in some of Canberra’s most notable kitchens.
Since arriving from Chile in 2011, he has worked at Jamala Wildlife Lodge, the Embassy of Mexico, Government House and the High Commission of Canada, cooking a variety of cuisines and catering for diplomats and dignitaries.
Now, together with partner Lee Vu, who comes from a very active foodie family, they are bringing those experiences together in a business of their own. Rather than opening a large restaurant, the pair chose to keep things compact, from the menu to the venue, naming it after the ocean between Australia and the Americas.
“The Pacific covers a vast range of civilisations and flavours. I want to show Aussies what is happening throughout that area, especially the vibrant Spanish-speaking cultures of the Americas, through food,” Alejandro says.
“Growing up in Chile, I came from a family of cooks, and that, along with working with so many brilliant chefs from around the world, has kept my curiosity for food so active. It now shapes what appears on the menu daily.”
Owners Alejandro Torres Santelices and Lee Vu. Photo: Sophia Brady
For lunch, I ordered the slow-cooked pork nachos, which arrived loaded with tender pork shoulder braised for hours with achiote, a native Mexican seed. The meat was deeply savoury, incredibly moist and simply excellent.
Piled on top was guacamole and a very satisfying addition of feta cheese and pickled onions. It was served with two salsas, a vibrant tomatillo and a spicy red chilli. It caught me off guard how much I enjoyed this seemingly simple dish; it was surprisingly layered and thoughtfully balanced.
The meal was memorable enough that I found myself thinking about it afterwards, so I decided to work my way through more of the menu. I popped back in to pick up a takeaway dinner order of chicken and chorizo paella, a selection of empanadas, another serve of the pork nachos and a side of fries, which only strengthened my first impression that I had stumbled onto something special.
The paella was mouthwatering to look at and absolutely delicious, one of the best I have had in Canberra. The golden crust on the bottom was spot on, the chicken pieces juicy and tender, the chorizo providing a nice bit of fat, and even the green beans, an ingredient I would normally avoid, earned their place on my fork. The rice was cooked through perfectly, and the beautiful blend of paprika and saffron came through in every bite.
The golden crust on the bottom of the paella was spot on. Photo: Sophia Brady.
As for the rest of the meal, the nachos were just as good the second time around, while the fries were perfectly cooked and seasoned with salt and oregano. They were impossible not to scoff by the handful. It feels silly to say, but the humble chip was a highlight.
Alejandro says quality fresh ingredients are central to everything coming out of the kitchen. He shops constantly, always keeps stocks on the boil and regularly visits markets and fishmongers to source produce.
He sums up his philosophy in four words. “Simple food properly done.”
The Pacific Food Studio is located at Shop LG 05/10 Parbery St, in Kingston. Open Tuesday to Sunday for lunch from 10:30 am to 3 pm, and dinner from 5 pm to 9 pm. Follow them on Facebook and Instagram to keep up to date with their offerings.
Original Article published by Sophia Brady on Region Canberra.
