Cesar Corripio and his Mum at Jarochos Braddon. Photo: Lucy Ridge.
Lively South American music pulses as we arrive at Jarochos Real Mexican on Lonsdale St in Braddon for some sustenance before heading to see Nirvana – The Band, The Show, The Movie.
I have enjoyed traditional Mexican food from Jarochos several times from their food truck, so seeing their Braddon restaurant is exciting.
It is a Wednesday, which means it is Tequila & Tumbao Night.
Owner Cesar Corripio pushes tables and chairs aside to create a dance floor inside the restaurant. This weekly Latin social night, co-hosted by Latin Dance Canberra School, pairs Latin dancing with drink and taco specials.
There’s more than tacos at Jarichos, but that doesn’t mean you can’t order them. Photo: Ruby Wilde Photo.
Cesar is a busy man. In fact, he barely registered that this past week marked the Braddon restaurant’s second birthday.
“That’s how life goes,” he laughs. “Time just passes.”
Time passes, but through the years and changes to Jarochos, Cesar’s goal – to bring authentic Mexican flavours to Canberra – has never wavered. He wants diners to experience more than just the food of Mexico, he wants them to feel the colour, spectacle and vibrant tapestry that is Mexican culture.
The longaniza taco. Photo: Kazuri Photography.
Part of that concept includes making fresh tortillas in front of diners. Cesar imported a pricey Mexican tortilla machine so diners could see tortillas being made as they ate. Unfortunately, a massive party-pooper called red tape currently stands in the way of this plan, but watch this space; he has a backup plan.
The menu, meanwhile, has grown considerably and now even includes a weekend brunch section.
“When we first opened, the menu was basically tacos,” Cesar says. “We’ve started adding nachos, and other dishes that began as specials have become part of the menu.”
We order two tacos: a suadero and a longaniza, along with a plate of pollos (chicken) nachos and this week’s special, quesa birria.
I order an Espresso Azteka after Cesar describes how he blends spice-scented Mexican pot coffee with Kahlúa, which actually originated in Veracruz, Cesar’s hometown. The cocktail is crisp, cold and sweet, with warm spice notes lingering pleasantly on my taste buds.
We delight in the traditional ice-cold horchata, made from rice, cinnamon and milk. It tastes like Christmas in a milkshake.
The nacho chips come out topped with chipotle-marinated chicken with caramelised onion, queso, crema and guacamole. Each bite is gloriously moreish and a delicious blend of Tex-Mex and Mex-Mex.
The suadero taco, filled with slow-cooked pulled beef marinated in spices, onion and coriander, looks simple but delivers big flavour. And those corn tortillas are the real deal. Bueno!
We dip our quesa birria tacos into the meaty broth. Photo: Kazuri Photography.
The longaniza taco is equally satisfying. Robustly spiced marinated sausage is fried and served on the taco with finely chopped onion and coriander. The time and care that goes into making this Mexican sausage are evident – the meat is packed with flavour. Delicious mouthfuls.
The quesa birria special is our dish of the night. Tacos dipped in rich lamb stew broth, stuffed with the lamb stew, aromatics and cheese, then fried in the lamb fat, giving them a deep golden colour. Crisp, fragrant, melty, and gloriously greasy, we dip our tacos into the bowl of piquant, meaty broth. Messy-delicious and a must-try!
Jarochos tempers its use of chilli to suit everyone who tacos there, but those seeking heat can turn to the three house-made sauces that will accompany your order.
The fiery red sauce features hot and fruity morita and arbol chillies. The milder green sauce, made from jalapeño and green tomatoes, is lively enough to jangle my taste buds. Meanwhile, the full-bodied, chilli-free capsicum and tomato sauce sings with char-grilled flavour.
Note the trio of sauces on the left. Photo: Kazuri Photography.
Cesar’s long-term vision includes plans for the drinks program and a new dining format.
“We’ll be making some bigger changes, especially on the drinks side, and we’re looking at doing a set menu.”
The proposed menu will allow diners to explore more traditional dishes.
“It will be something you need to pre-book. No tacos on this menu; rather, dishes like Mexican steak soup or crispy enchiladas. Dishes people rarely see here. It’s about showing people what you would really eat in Mexico.
Cesar is also exploring the possibility of opening a seafood-focused venue.
“We’re thinking about another place, maybe on the beach, serving only seafood. Fish tacos would be a highlight. Everything tastes better by the sea.”
Jarochos Real Mexican is located at Unit 60/30 Lonsdale St in Braddon. It is open on Monday from 4 pm to 9 pm, from Tuesday to Thursday from 12 pm to 2:30 pm and from 5:30 pm to 9 pm, on Friday from 12 pm to 9 pm, on Saturday from 11 am to 9 pm, and on Sunday from 11 am to 8 pm.
Follow Jarochos on Facebook and Instagram to keep up with all their events and new flavours. Go to their website to check out their menu and check out their Tequila and Tumbao Nights.
Original Article published by Michelle Taylor on Region Canberra.
