Orange chicken ramen is an unusual pairing, but it works well. Photo: Lucy Ridge.
Mugii snuck onto the scene on Lonsdale Street following the closure of White Chaco last year. The restaurant retains much of the concrete-clad interior, but has a new menu and a new team.
Opening without fanfare, Mugii has surprised a few customers who didn’t realise the space had changed hands until they sat down and looked at the menu. While a few people have been sad to lose their favourite dishes, owner Yu-Han Hsu (who goes by Angela) told Region that most people have been welcoming of the new team.
“We understand that people liked the old dishes, but we’ve had really good feedback about the new dishes too,” she said.
“We aim to retain those old customers and hopefully attract some new ones as well. At the moment, we have a small menu because we want to focus on doing it right and taking care of our customers.”
Yu-Han ‘Angela’ Hsu is the face of Mugii. Photo: Lucy Ridge.
Visiting for dinner on a weeknight, the place was comfortably full with staff busily serving tables. The menu is fairly compact with small plates, sides and a handful of ramen and rice dishes, along with two desserts.
We decide to share takoyaki (fried octopus dough balls) and spring rolls with a sauce. I choose the orange chicken ramen, and my friend has the eel rice bowl.
The orange chicken ramen is a unique offering at Mugii, and the citrus offers a zingy sweetness to the broth, which I enjoy. Angela tells me that sometimes people are on the fence about choosing the dish, so she often recommends the chicken karaage entree with orange sauce as a taster to see if they enjoy the combination.
Tasting my friend’s eel, the sticky soy and sweet eel meat make a great combination, moreish with the rice. She says it’s the nicest eel she’s ever had. We also grab some pickles on the side, which are a fabulous addition.
Deliciously charred eel on rice at Mugii. Photo: Lucy Ridge.
Returning for lunch another day, I enjoy the scallop starter: it’s subtle, rich in flavour thanks to a soy dressing, and the accompanying sauce offers just enough chilli heat in contrast to the cool, raw scallop.
The chicken ramen is a masterclass in layering flavours.
A rich, flavourful broth cooked for 12 hours is the base of the dish, and a small slice of smoked chicken breast imparts a subtle smokiness which I love. Thinly sliced daikon radish and spring onion freshen up the dish, a few pieces of crumbed chicken soak up the broth, and the noodles are bouncy and chewy.
Fresh and fried shiso leaves accompany the scallop starter. Photo: Lucy Ridge
I also grab the house-made kimchi to have on the side: it’s surprisingly creamy from sesame seeds but still keeps a sour freshness which cuts through the rich ramen nicely.
The drinks menu includes wine, beer and sake. Our server suggested a very lovely sake to accompany the meal, and I also tried the watermelon-and-oolong-tea mocktail, which was beautifully refreshing. Angela says the entree menu is designed to be shareable as bar snacks for a casual drink.
“We focus on simple, honest food made with care. We hope people feel comfortable when they walk in — whether it’s a quick lunch, dinner with friends, or just a casual night out. Good food, warm service, and a space where you can unwind.”
Mugii is located at 10/27 Lonsdale St, Braddon. They are open for lunch Thursday to Sunday from 12 noon to 2 pm, and for dinner Wednesday to Monday from 5 pm to 9 pm. Follow Mugii on Instagram.
Original Article published by Lucy Ridge on Region Canberra.
