The handsome fit-out is worthy of the reputation that +84 Kitchen has been building in a short time. Photo: Tenele Conway.
Everyone loves the idea of a hidden restaurant. Maybe it’s the nature of discovery, maybe it’s the exclusivity, or maybe food is just better when you’ve worked for it, like eating a huge burger after an epic gym sesh.
If ‘hidden’ is your love language when it comes to food, +84 Kitchen in Phillip fits the bill.
For first-timers, you’ll need to put your trust in Google as it takes you off Furzer Street and down among the new apartment buildings.
To get there, you’ll pass another Vietnamese spot offering up pho in the same alleyway (no shade, just a reminder to come back another time). Just when you think that Google has lost its navigational ability, that’s where you’ll find your destination, in a large corner venue that they’ve called home for around 8 months. The fresh, polished new fit-out feels worthy of the reputation they’ve been building.
I’m greeted warmly at the door and take a seat at the high counter by the window. There really is no better place to dine alone than on a window perch, and these guys are equipped with ample perches for such occasions.
Before I’ve even opened the menu, a pot of jasmine tea and a tiny cup arrive at the table. It’s a small touch, but it sets the tone for the kind of service on offer.
The menu at +84 Kitchen is familiar but with just enough twists and turns to feel new and exciting. Photo: +84 Kitchen.
The menu feels familiar for anyone who frequents Vietnamese restaurants, but there are enough curveballs to keep things interesting. I’m eyeing off a couple of those when I’m told they’re sadly unavailable on this particular day, the phở chiên phồng (deep-fried pho pillows) and the hủ tiếu noodles with pork and quail eggs will have to wait for next time.
Forced into a snap decision, I ignored my usual instinct to order pho; if I had my way, you’d likely read a pho review from me every week, so instead I landed on the bún chả, and as I suspected, it was a good call.
This northern Vietnamese dish had a serious day in the spotlight on Anthony Bourdain’s Parts Unknown, as he dined with then-president Barack Obama and balanced on Vietnam’s infamous tiny stools in 2016.
The bún chả is a porky delight that will leave you feeling full. Photo: Tenele Conway.
Here it arrives on two plates – one containing a warm dipping sauce with a side of noodles, leaves and bean sprouts; the other containing thinly sliced grilled pork alongside pork patties.
Bún chả is a hands-on experience, and my server kindly informs me to toss the meat and noodles into the bowl of dipping sauce and consume at will.
It’s a dish that pleases on many fronts. Slippery noodles soak up the warm dipping sauce; herbs and leaves add a crispy, fresh touch; background notes of fish sauce add some complexity; and the large meat patties make for a substantial serve, but the standout here is the thinly sliced grilled pork. It’s smoky and textural and reminiscent of well-cooked bacon.
Even dining solo, it’s hard not to get swept up in the room. To my right, a diner enthusiastically declares that she’ll have the same dish that she has at every visit, the rare beef and beef brisket pho. Somewhere behind me, loud slurps emanate from a couple that are engrossed in their meals, and to my left, a gentleman rears back from a finished bowl of soup with a loud and satisfied sigh, like he couldn’t eat another bite.
Finishing with one last sip of jasmine tea, I’m right there with him. Satisfied, full, and already thinking about what I’ll order next time.
+84 Kitchen is located at 6 T01-C04/2-6 Furzer St, Phillip. They’re open for lunch and dinner from Monday to Saturday. Check Facebook for opening hours.
Original Article published by Tenele Conway on Region Canberra.
