The grilled octopus was fabulous with a glass of retsina. Photo: Lucy Ridge.
Swinger Hill is now home to a Greek restaurant that is as delicious as it is gregarious. Asteri Greek Taverna is named after the village where owner and chef Tim ‘Digger’ Moustakas’s mother was born. There’s a family-style ease here, and a sense of comfort.
Chef Digger previously ran Fillos at Hellenic Club Woden before moving to Swinger Hill to open Asteri earlier this year.
Having arrived on a bitterly cold and rainy night, we’re eager to shake off the chill. We quickly decide on the grilled octopus as my dining partner reminisces about the meals she ate on a Greek holiday. We also order moussaka – a classic – and keftedes, which are described as Greek meatballs.
I am intrigued by a dish under the salads heading called horta: boiled endive with olive oil and lemon juice, served with home-made bread. Our server suggests we have that with the octopus to start.
There is also a ‘Digger-station’ menu option for those wanting a broader taste of the menu (and a dose of Chef Digger’s humour!)
The olive oil really elevated this dish of wilted greens with lemon. Photo: Lucy Ridge.
My friend enthusiastically orders us two glasses of retsina: a Greek white wine with a unique pine flavour. It’s a ‘love it’ or ‘hate it’ kind of drink. Some find the flavour a little too reminiscent of Pine-O-Clean, or too strong, but we fall into the ‘love it’ category!
The octopus arrives quickly, and we tuck in. This dish is available as an entree or main dish, and the entree comes with two well-sized tentacles on a bed of bean puree. The meat is tender, perfectly charred and spiced with just a hint of cinnamon. The horta endive does make a nice accompaniment to the dish. The greens are sweet and tasty, and although it’s a simple dish, the quality of the olive oil makes the whole thing shine. Big yum.
Moussaka is a well-loved Greek dish made with layers of eggplant, potato and minced meat, topped with cheese. The Asteri version also has a layer of rice on the bottom, which is mixed with greens.
We are immediately enamoured by this herby delight and very pleased when we see that the keftedes meatballs are served on top of a pile of the stuff!
It’s a hearty, warming dish and exactly what we need on this cold night. The keftedes are gorgeous: tender, juicy and packed with flavour. They are a delight with plenty of lemon squeezed on top.
Mousaka is a classic Greek dish, and this version is excellent. Photo: Lucy Ridge.
Both dishes come with a side of moreish lemon-baked potatoes and a Greek salad. I love Greek salad, but fresh tomatoes, cucumbers and capsicum are far from their best in a Canberra winter. This creates something of a conundrum: can a Greek restaurant not serve Greek salad? It’s not for me to decide, but next time I’d personally swap it for the more seasonal cabbage salad until we get to summer.
At this point we’re ready for another glass of wine. My friend is ready for more retsina, but I’m curious about the other Greek wines on the menu. I’m not particularly well-versed in Greek wine varieties, so I ask for a recommendation. Our server gives me a taste of vidiano from Heraklion in Crete. It’s a dry white with stone-fruit aromatics and a savoury finish. I get a glass and enjoy it very much.
The kefetedes were a new dish to us but a quick favourite. Photo: Lucy Ridge.
We sticky-beak on the orders of surrounding tables. One group has ordered different types of souvlaki that look really good; the chicken skewers, in particular, are giving me order-envy. I’d come back for that, or to try the Greek-style pizzas which look like a good time.
We are full but determined to taste at least one dessert and find ourselves drawn to rice pudding, described on the menu as Yiayia’s delight. Topped with cinnamon and served with caramelised fig ice-cream, the dish is creamy and comforting. We mop up every bite.
Swinger Hill is lucky to have Asteri as their local!
Asteri Greek Taverna is located at Swinger Hill Shops, 84 Ainsworth St, Mawson. They are open for lunch from 12 pm to 2:30 pm, seven days a week and for dinner from 6 pm to 9 pm Monday to Wednesday and from 6 pm to 10 pm Thursday to Sunday. Follow Asteri on Facebook or Instagram.
Original Article published by Lucy Ridge on Region Canberra.
