Outdoor seating gives diners the option of feeling the lake’s refreshing breeze. Photo: Kazuri Photography.
I have come to eat dinner at Rakkas, a mere four hours after indulging in a festive lunch at work, so I am not hungry at all. Little do I know, this brand new restaurant is about to produce what has become my favourite meal of 2024.
Set along the Kingston foreshore, Rakkas is owner and chef Mert’s passion project, a physical expression of his love for his country of origin, Türkiye – a sharing of vibrant dishes from its seven different regions.
He has a story to tell, and Rakkas is his medium. Mert wants to show that his homeland is so much more than pide and kebabs, to reflect how its proximity to the Middle East, the Caucasus and the Balkans influences its flavour palette.
“We want to show that Turkish food is absolutely limitless; Turkish culture is massive. If you go to the west, you find seafood and cook with olive oil, eating ‘summery’ flavours. If you head east, you are in colder, more mountainous terrain, so you have all the comforting carbs to keep you strong and energised. When considering our menu, we didn’t stick to the classics. We wanted to touch a little of everything in Türkiye. And every dish on our menu is about balance.”
Barman Berke making my Bursa cocktail. Photo: Kazuri Photography.
Matt has deliberately limited the tables within Rakkas’ dining space, giving it an intimate feel as the sun dips and mood lighting takes over. Outdoor seating offers diners the option of feeling the lake’s refreshing breeze as they enjoy dinner with a view.
The menu pairs familiar terms and ingredients alongside exotic elements. Every dish is there for a reason and forms part of Mert’s love story for Türkiye. The restaurant even scents its warm refresher hand towels with rosewater.
Everything sounds delicious, so we go with Mert’s suggestions, beginning with hot Turkish bread and a trio of dips. That bread, straight from the oven, is just the best Turkish bread ever. Warm and spongy, it is the perfect vehicle to scoop up the trio of dips of your dreams.
Mert’s dips are like no dip platter you have seen. So pretty, you almost do not want to disturb it. The hummus is the real deal, so good. A chilli macaron filled with maras chilli-infused labneh is a perfect blend of sweet and sour. The absolute knockout dip is the intensely flavoured beetroot dip: sweet, earthy, garlic-kissed, naturally scarlet and encased in a delicate crisp cannoli shell.
What a cracker start to this meal.
Hot Turkish bread and a trio of dips. Photo: Kazuri Photography.
Raki Melon is a dish I would not normally order, but I am glad for Mert’s suggestion. Raki-soaked Piel de Sapo served with whipped ezine feta. The aniseed-flavoured Turkish liquor imbues the fresh melon balls with a light sweetness, while the herbs, pistachios and whipped feta keep the dish from being a dessert. We so enjoy it all.
And the Bamya! Crispy chickpeas and fried okra over fava bean puree with dill. Crisp pops of chickpeas and okra elevate the taste sensation of the lush, nutty puree. It is a pure delight to eat okra cooked to perfection, and I really enjoy how Mert balances smooth, mild flavours with crispy and zingy elements.
Raki melon: Raki-soaked Piel de Sapo served with whipped ezine feta. Photo: Kazuri Photography.
The Fremantle Octopus Skewer dish arrives, and it also looks too pretty to eat. We swipe tender chunks of char-grilled octopus through tart, tangy ezme, the Turkish equivalent of salsa and an umami hit of tarama topped with salty bursts of salmon and fresh fennel.
Mert tells us that the Kingfish Tartare is inspired by the much-loved street food in coastal Istanbul: freshly grilled fish in bread, which he created by tossing delicate cubes of kingfish in xo mayo within a crispy bread. Dressed with pickled onion and black caviar, it is another fabulous dish, balancing soft with crisp and tangy with creamy.
Barman Berke has dreamed up 12 signature cocktails, celebrating the seven regions of Türkiye and incorporating the ingredients best known for those areas.
He makes me his newest offering, a Bursa. All peaches, rum and caramel, the Bursa is named for Mert’s hometown, famed for supplying 80 per cent of Türkiye’s peaches.
Rakkas is the Turkish word for dancer, and as I sit in Rakkas, eating my way around Türkiye, my tastebuds are certainly cavorting with delight. The attention to the little details and intricacies, to the pairings of food and of wines to food – it is a delicious feast and my favourite meal of 2024.
Rakkas owner and chef Mert. Photo: Kazuri Photography.
Rakkas is located at 18/19 Eastlake Parade on the Kingston Foreshore. It is open Tuesday to Saturday from 12 noon to 2 pm for lunch and from 5:30 pm to 9 pm for dinner.
Follow Rakkas on Instagram and check out their menu.
Original Article published by Michelle Taylor on Riotact.
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