High drama and premium sashimi are a great way to kick off your meal. Photo: Lucy Ridge.
It’s been a little while since I visited Inari at Tiger Lane. The modern Japanese offshoot of the hawker-style lane has had a few chefs come and go since they opened, but the arrival of Chef Sean John Barogo marks an exciting opportunity for Inari to reinvigorate their menu and get people excited. So I figured it was a good excuse to return.
Chef Barogo has worked in many well-respected Japanese restaurants around Australia in his 26-year career, including Sakana Restaurant, Sake Restaurant Sydney and, most recently, Kin Pan-Asian at Burleigh Heads.
He brings the full breadth of that experience to Inari.
“Japanese cuisine is built on respect— respect for ingredients, technique and the people you’re cooking for. My goal at Inari is to create food that feels authentic, exciting and memorable while always staying true to those foundations.”
Chef Barogo’s new menu stays true to the ethos of Inari that I enjoyed so much the first time around: elevated Japanese that isn’t afraid to have a little fun. There are a few nods to the original menu – popcorn shrimp and miso-marinated Patagonian toothfish are two signature dishes that have stayed – but plenty of new dishes to try.
Chef Barogo is rightly proud of this salmon roll. Photo: Lucy Ridge.
Our server immediately wins me over by suggesting a plate of edamame to snack on while we decide what to order. It is an excellent idea, and the edamame is worth writing home about: coated in a buttery chilli jam, it is moreish as heck.
And before too long we’re enjoying a cocktail with our first course: a seven-piece selection of sashimi and half a dozen Pacific oysters with a ponzu dressing and pops of roe. The dish is presented with plenty of dry ice and showmanship.
The ponzu dressing on the oysters is fabulous, and the sashimi is cut beautifully.
Chef Barogo insists we try his naked crispy salmon makimono rolls. These rolls of avocado, salmon and rice are torched, then topped with a mix of sauces. In the words of my dining companion, “this f-ing slaps!”
We move on to hot dishes: tempura Moreton Bay bug and vegetable tempura. The tempura is light, crispy and not oily, and we tuck into the bug first. Imagine the fanciest, tenderest, sweetest fish and chips in the world, and you’re part of the way to appreciating this dish. The vegetable tempura is also delicious, particularly the fanned-out enoki mushrooms.
The tempura Moreton Bay Bug is top-notch. Photo: Lucy Ridge.
For our main dishes, we were tempted by the teriyaki and intrigued by the nasu parmi (a Japanese twist on an eggplant parmigiana). In the end, we had the JapKo Ramen and Char-Grilled MB9+ Wagyu, which is served on a mini Hibachi grill. Again, Inari brings a little drama to our table.
A well-cooked piece of meat (well-cooked, not well-done) is a joy, but the accompanying sauces here elevate it from premium protein to culinary delight. The torched miso is sweet and salty, and I find myself dunking pieces of beef into it, then scooping up the whole mouthful with a spoon of perfectly pearly rice. Divine.
The JapKo ramen is spicy and funky, with perfectly jammy ramen eggs. We happily slurp the whole thing up. It’s good, but falls short of justifying the $38 price tag.
To accompany our mains, we enjoy two different paired sakes. Served in lovely pottery bottles and cups, the Yamaguchi is slightly sweeter and best drunk with the ramen, while the Niigata holds a little more acidity to complement the steak. We’re told that the team is working on a full sake pairing for the menu, which will be something to look forward to!
Mini-Hibachi wagyu beef is great with the torched miso sauce. Photo: Lucy Ridge.
We decide we are too full for dessert, but I am intrigued by the ice cream tempura: a grown-up deep-fried ice cream that I’d love to try sometime.
It’s clear that Chef Barogo’s tenure at Inari will be marked by excellence and a healthy dose of drama.
Inari is located at Canberra Centre, 148 Bunda St (Ground Level, between Bunda Street and Scotts Crossing). They are open for dinner from 5 to 9 pm Sunday to Thursday, and from 5 to 9.30 pm Friday and Saturday. They are currently only accepting bookings of 10 or more for lunch, but lunch service will recommence soon. Follow Inari on Facebook or Instagram.
Original Article published by Lucy Ridge on Region Canberra.
