Executive Chef Anita Chung and her team of pastry chefs deliver an exceptional high tea experience. Photo: Martin Conway.
For over 100 years, Hyatt Hotel Canberra has been welcoming guests into her art deco interiors, where restrained luxury meets a contemporary take on a time gone by.
Not that you need an excuse to step through those classical doors, but a new autumn high tea menu was the motivation for my recent visit.
Settling into the deep plush armchairs of the 102-year-old Tea Lounge, once the hotel’s dining room, it quickly became clear I wasn’t going anywhere for the rest of the afternoon. This is a place that invites you to stay put, to settle in and let the afternoon unfold, just as it has for generations before.
A glass of Taittinger Champagne in hand, I take in the high ceilings and the low hum of conversation beneath them. Towers of high tea drift past, and for a moment, I’m reminded of a former life, one that often led me to places where no expense is spared in the pursuit of splendour. It’s a space the Hyatt inhabits with ease, aligned with the traditions of the great hotels of the world.
As our personal dessert tower makes its way through the room, we’re greeted by the smiling face of Pastry Chef Anita Chung. Along with her team of four pastry chefs, they’re the talent behind the menu we’re about to enjoy.
With her menu leaning into the season, she talks us through the array of dishes, with a perfect blend of sweet and savoury, and I must say, I’m glad that I skipped lunch.
Spanning three tiers, the high tea tower will see you through the afternoon in elegance. Photo: Martin Conway.
The hot scones seemed the logical place to start, as to let them cool would be a crime. The gruyère cheese of the pillowy scones, offset with the sweetness of the house-made papaya jam, was the perfect melding of sweet and savoury. Rich in flavour yet light in texture, they set the tone for what was to come.
Moving to the middle tier of the tower were two large vol-au-vents. Cutting into the buttery, flaky pastry, it fell away to allow creamy chicken and wild mushrooms to flow from within. Completely decadent, they are just made for the autumn.
Slowing things down a little to fully appreciate the experience, I pick up the menu to peruse the tea on offer, and an eagle-eyed server spots the move, appearing promptly at my side to take our order. It’s touches like these that set the Hyatt apart.
The tea, curated by The Tea Centre exclusively for the lounge, spans everything from a delicate first-flush Darjeeling to a refined Earl Grey blending Sri Lankan leaves with those from the Daintree. We settle on Hyatt’s own bespoke blend of Rose Floriat, fragrant and floral, alongside a Japanese Genmaicha, its roasted rice notes a personal favourite.
With two pots of tea swiftly arriving at the table, we turn to the sandwich selection like two kids in a candy store. Working our way from one end of the pretty little row to the other, we started with the daintiest of cucumber sandwiches with the most artful and uniform placing of cucumbers that you’re ever likely to see.
Next was the roast beef sandwich with horseradish cream. Chef Anita hinted that the secret ingredient here is a homemade barbecue sauce, and she’s right. The very subtle smear elevates the flavours, and its sweetness perfectly balances the sharp horseradish.
The final sandwich is arguably the visual showstopper, with smoked trout atop house-made tartare on a slice of brioche, finished with luminescent roe. It’s food and art combined into one delightful bite.
Save the sweets until last and you’ll be met with a selection of perfectly formed bites all topped with gold leaf. Photo: Martin Conway.
We leave the sweets – four petite creations, each distinct – as you should, until the end.
The Guanaja chocolate tart balances raspberry with thyme, while the Jivara milk chocolate morsel layers pear, lemon and ginger with textures from the bavarois and feuilletine. The rose, vanilla and strawberry mousse is their signature and is nicely complemented by our choice of floral tea, and the tiny Mont Blanc pavlova leans into the season with chestnuts. All in all, it’s a considered selection and one that’s deeply satisfying.
As we wrap up the high tea and head back through the Irish strawberry trees surrounding the hotel, I glance back at the iconic entrance of the Hyatt, already planning my return.
The new autumn high tea menu is available in The Tea Lounge from Thursday to Sunday. There are two sittings available each day, from 11 am to 1 pm, and from 2 pm to 4 pm.
For reservations, visit Hyatt Hotel Canberra.
Original Article published by Tenele Conway on Region Canberra.
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