Kewa Datshi, a vegetarian dish of potatoes, chilli & cheese. Photo: Sophia Brady.
One of the things I enjoy most about eating out is how it can show me places I have never visited, introduce me to foods I have never tasted, and expose me to cooking ideas I had not encountered before. That desire to learn more through food brought me to De’ Loca Fusion in Dickson.
Located in the ground-floor laneway of the DKSN development, the small, unassuming café and restaurant operates from day to night. It serves coffee, breakfast, lunch and dinner to nearby apartment dwellers and office workers, with everything from chilli scrambled eggs and burgers to fish and chips on the menu.
Tucked among those more familiar offerings is a small collection of Bhutanese dishes.
That broad menu reflects owner Loca’s vision for the restaurant.
“We opened De’ Loca Fusion with the idea of creating a place where my Bhutanese background and love of food could be combined with a more modern and diverse dining experience,” Loca said.
“Bhutanese food is an important part of our identity, but our intention has always been to explore different flavours and create dishes that appeal to a wider range of customers.”
The Bhutanese section of the menu is relatively small, but a few themes quickly emerge, most notably a love of both chilli and cheese. The team were happy to help us explore it. Questions were welcomed, dishes were explained, and recommendations were offered freely.
One of my pet peeves at a restaurant is asking for a recommendation and getting a shrug or the stock response that “everything is good”. Instead, we were guided through the options by staff who clearly knew the menu and were happy to share their knowledge.
A mixed platter of beef, chicken, pork and vegetable dumplings. Photo: Sophia Brady.
We started with a mixed platter of beef, chicken, pork and vegetable dumplings, served both steamed and fried. For me, the steamed dumplings were the tastiest. I particularly enjoyed the beef filling, which delivered a burst of broth and gentle spice, while the vegetable dumpling paired cabbage and cheese in a smooth, creamy filling.
I love a good condiment, and the house-made chilli sauce served alongside the platter immediately lit up my taste buds. Made with dried red chilli, ginger, garlic, black pepper, tomato and onion, it delivered far more than heat. Sweet, savoury and spicy all at once, it looked rustic but packed serious depth.
Next came Kewa Datshi, a traditional vegetarian dish of potatoes, chilli and cheese served with rice. The potatoes held their shape while carrying the creamy sauce that coated every mouthful. It was rich without feeling heavy, and unlike any stew I can remember eating before thanks to the addition of cheese. The chilli certainly made its presence known.
We finished with Sikam Paa, a stir-fry of cured, smoked and sun-dried pork belly cooked with dried red chillies and radish. The pork, sourced from a specialty butcher, combines rich layers of fat with lean meat, creating a chewy, smoky texture packed with character. Think thick-cut, glossy pieces of bacon with a stronger smoky edge.
The sight of more than 10 dried chillies scattered across the plate caused a brief moment of concern. Thankfully, the dish proved far less intimidating than it looked. The pork was rich and savoury, the radish added crunch and freshness, and the chillies contributed as much flavour as heat.
The sight of more than 10 dried chillies scattered across the plate caused a brief moment of concern. Photo: Sophia Brady
What started as an interest in a cuisine and country I knew very little about ended with an appreciation for the generous use of chilli and the uniquely comforting role that cheese plays in Bhutanese cooking.
In a small Dickson laneway, I found a taste of the Himalayas.
De’ Loca Fusion is located at 23 Challis St, Dickson. It’s open Monday and Tuesday from 7:30 am to 3 pm, Wednesday to Friday from 7:30 am to 3 pm and 5 pm to 9 pm, and on Saturday and Sunday from 8:30 am to 3 pm and 5 pm to 9 pm.
Original Article published by Sophia Brady on Region Canberra.
