Kebabs are served on enormous skewers that stretch dramatically across the plate. Photo: Sophia Brady.
When a group of former colleagues and I decided it was time for a catch-up, we settled on Bamiyan Restaurant in Braddon for one simple reason: none of us knew much about Afghan food, but we were curious to find out more.
That unfamiliarity lasted only until we opened the menu. While many of the dish names were new to us, the influences quickly felt recognisable.
Grilled meats evoked Middle Eastern cooking, and curries hinted at South Asian cuisines, while dumplings and rice dishes struck us as distinctly Central Asian.
Given Afghanistan’s position between these regions, it all made sense.
Located on Lonsdale Street near Civic Pub, Bamiyan has been operating in Braddon since 2017, a considerable achievement on a street that has seen its share of restaurant openings and closings over the years.
Inside, the dining room is simple, with a long red banquette running down one wall and a large round table tucked into a corner. The feature that caught our attention was a large print of the famous National Geographic photograph of the young Afghan girl with penetrating green eyes. It reminded us of the rich culture and turbulent history behind the food.
The menu is huge, with options covering every protein (aside from pork, as it is halal-friendly), including camel. Rather than spend the evening working our way through the pages and pages of dishes, we settled on a $60-a-head banquet that included four entrees, two mains, rice and naan.
The entrees arrived together and immediately covered the table. The koobideh lamb kebab and chicken tikka kebab were served on enormous metal skewers that stretched dramatically across the plate. Alongside them sat mantu dumplings and kachaloo bolanee, creating a spread that was remarkably generous for a first course.
The mantu was the best dish of the evening. Photo: Sophia Brady.
The mantu was the best dish of the evening for me. Filled with lamb and onion, it was topped with split peas, tomato sauce, yoghurt and mint. It delivered everything you could want in a dumpling, a delicious complex bite. The soft wrapper, rich filling and fresh yoghurt worked beautifully together.
The kachaloo bolanee, a pan-fried bread stuffed with potato, herbs and spices, served as another highlight. It carried a gentle kick of heat and disappeared quickly around the table. The two skewers showcased the beauty of the chargrill, with both the lamb and chicken carrying plenty of smoky character while remaining juicy and tender.
For mains, we chose two dishes marked as chef’s specials: chicken karahi and lamb kurooti. These arrived with Afghan naan and Kabuli pallow rice.
The naan was different from the versions we were used to at Indian restaurants. Longer, slightly denser and with more chew, it was perfect for scooping up the sauces.
The lamb kurooti prompted plenty of discussion around the table. Its creamy sauce was rich and sparked comparisons to a nostalgic canned tomato soup, albeit one layered with far more spice and depth. The chicken karahi delivered warm spices in abundance, with tender chicken in a deeply moreish, tomato-based curry.
For mains, curries arrived with Afghan naan and Kabuli pallow rice. Photo: Sophia Brady.
The Kabuli pallow rice was perhaps the clearest nod to Central Asia. The combination of caramelised carrots, sultanas and almonds added sweetness and texture that sat nicely alongside the rich curries.
By the end of the meal, takeaway containers were unavoidable. Staff quickly brought them over as it became clear we would not make much of a dent in the generous portions.
For a group looking to try something different, Bamiyan proved an easy place to start. The food is warm, hearty and generous. Just make sure you order the mantu!
Bamiyan Restaurant is located at 10 Lonsdale St, Braddon, and is open 7 days a week for lunch from noon and dinner from 5 pm.
Original Article published by Sophia Brady on Region Canberra.
