6 top steak tartares in Canberra

Steak tartare has well and truly made a comeback and seems to be here to stay. From retro classic to beloved menu staple, I first noticed the rise in tartares a few years ago.

Also called beef tartare, this dish takes the ‘yuck’ of raw meat and turns it into ‘yum’. The traditional recipe calls for a raw egg yolk and is often served with mustard, diced shallots and cornichon pickles. Canberra chefs have been flexing their creative muscles and often serve a hot take on this cold dish, often incorporating multicultural influences. And yes, there have also been lots of tartare-inspired dishes using fish, lamb, even watermelon!

For now, we’ll stick to beef and share a few of Canberra’s top tartares.

Rebel Rebel, New Acton

Rebel Rebel sticks to their ethos of simple, well-executed dishes.

Chef Sean McConnell has a way of taking something ordinary – a cabbage, for example – and turning it into something spectacular.

Similarly, the Rebel Rebel steak tartare is done with a nod to tradition: anchovy, pickles and hot English mustard elevate the meat to a zingy, umami-rich and spicy delight. The meat is hand-cut for the perfect texture.

Wash it down with a glass of wine: their list is comprehensive, and you’ll be guided to the perfect drop.

Tintino, Kingston

Celebrating their first birthday this month, Tintino has become a much-loved Kingston local.

The wine shelves offer the temptation to take home a bottle, but it’s worth dining in for the full experience.

The first time I visited Tintino, they had a gochujang-spiked steak tartare on the menu. This Korean soy and chilli condiment lent a smoky depth of flavour to the dish. As the menu changes seasonally, so too does their tartare offering. Parmesan and mushrooms are currently listed on their menu: sounds like an umami bomb of a dish!

For the best people-watching opportunities, grab a seat at the window.

The Inn, Ainslie

Upstairs at Ainslie shops is The Inn, a modern bistro with an impressive grill at the core of its kitchen, dishing out incredible steaks, brilliant prawns and even occasionally lobster (in this economy!?)

But charcoal delights are set aside for a classic steak tartare: mustard, cornichons, quail egg yolk, good-quality meat and croutons to mop it all up.

It’s a classic for a reason, and it’s always satisfying when done well.

Dada, Woden

Dada is an underrated south-side gem with some of the most creative menu offerings around. Their steak tartare is made with beef tenderloin and flavoured with black vinegar – similar to what you’d have with dumplings. The vinegar provides the acidic tang to counterbalance the fattiness of the meat.

Dada’s ethos of inclusive dining extends to their tartare: where crisp slices of toasted bread would usually accompany the dish, they serve rice crisps instead.

Follow it up with their Korean fried chicken (or cauliflower) and thank me later.

Wine Room, Braddon

Hiding behind Cafe Gather on Mort Street in Braddon, Wine Room is an intimate space: perfect for a first date, best-friend catch-up or anniversary dinner. Their smoked tartare is perhaps the most ‘out there’ on this list.

Served under a glass cloche filled with smoke, this dish gives high drama, but it’s not style without substance. The tartare is flavoured with lemon myrtle and served with sesame rice crackers. Guaranteed spectacle.

Les Bistronomes, Campbell

Unsurprisingly, this classic French restaurant does a classic French steak tartare. For all the frills, fripperies and fusion flavours often seen on menus, you can trust the French know what they’re doing when it comes to food. Cornichons, parsley, onion and capers are mixed through the meat and topped with an egg yolk.

Doesn’t get much better than that.

Have you had a great tartare recently?

Original Article published by Lucy Ridge on Region Canberra.

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