As far as cities go, Canberra is a young’un. The hospitality scene here is widely considered to have only “taken off” (as they say) in the past 10 or 15 years and I couldn’t even begin to count the number of restaurants, bars and cafes that have come and gone in the capital.

But there are a few Canberra cafes that have gone the distance and survived across the decades.

Caphs, Manuka

Caphs lays claim to being Canberra’s oldest continuously operating eatery. Although the owners and names have changed since Liberty Cafe first opened in Griffith in 1926, the space has always been occupied, open and serving Canberrans.

The Notaras family was behind the original Liberty Cafe and in 1990 Manuel “Manny” Notaras took on ownership of the space once again with the opening of Caphs.

While many Canberra cafes close at 2 or 3 pm, Caphs is an all day and night venue, serving a huge menu ranging from classics like the house-crumbed veal schnitzel to breakfast options like the (apparently) famous breakfast burritos and a full range of pastas, burgers, salads and focaccias.

Tilley’s Devine Cafe and Gallery, Lyneham

Named after notorious 1920s Sydney gang leader Tilley Devine, Tilley’s Devine Cafe and Gallery opened in Lyneham in 1984.

In the early days Tilley’s was famously a venue for women and men were only allowed in the company of women. The counter-cultural space was an important meeting place for queer Canberrans, feminists and artists. These days the space is open to all genders, although the (mostly) female employees still staff the counter in white shirts with ties.

Groups of friends have been meeting at Tilley’s for decades and children have grown up around the retro booths, velvet curtains and polished brass bar. The same soundtrack of classic jazz still wafts around the outdoor seating and while the space hosts less live music than it did in the past, the baby grand piano on the stage still gets played every now and again.

The coffee is terrible but the atmosphere is second to none.

Gus’ Place, Civic

Gus’ Place – known to most as Gus’ cafe or just plain Gus’ – may be a controversial addition to this collection considering that its original home has been thoroughly demolished and a new five-star hotel is currently under construction in its place.

But the owners consider the cafe to be simply “on hiatus” and plan to reopen when the Aurora hotel is completed (currently projected for early 2027). And, frankly, it’s an icon of Canberra’s hospitality scene and I make the rules so I’m adding it to the list.

The original Gus’ Place was founded by Austrian-born Gus Petersilka in 1969 and was famously the first cafe in Canberra to offer al fresco seating, much to the annoyance of local authorities. His tables and chairs were regularly confiscated and he would have to go and retrieve them. But his persistence paid off and Canberra’s cafe scene has benefited immensely.

Next time you perch on an uncomfortable milk crate with an overpriced flat white in hand, remember Gus Petersilka fondly.

Hyatt Hotel Tea Lounge, Yarralumla

Starting life as Hostel Canberra in December of 1924, Hyatt Hotel Canberra was originally built to provide suitable accommodation for new parliamentarians and visitors to the Capital city.

After a brief closure in the 70s the hotel was reopened by Hyatt Hotels in 1988 and the Art Deco institution has thrived ever since. For old-world charm, the Tea Lounge at Hyatt Hotel is second to none. It is perhaps best known for High Tea: tiered cake stands with elegant finger sandwiches, freshly baked scones and delectable cakes. Best accompanied by a pot of tea and a glass of champagne.

Sit in the expansive art deco lounge, or enjoy the shade of the historic courtyards in fine weather.

What other Canberra foodie institutions are still around today?

Original Article published by Lucy Ridge on Region Canberra.

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